I first learned about Tokaji wine from the book ‘Wine and Humanities,’ which introduces a variety of interesting and historically beloved wines and figures. It was there I read about Louis XIV and his taste for Tokaji. Renowned for its exquisite taste, Tokaji wine was even savored by France’s ‘Sun King’ 🇫🇷 👑 Louis XIV. Legend has it that upon tasting Tokaji, he exclaimed, ‘This is the king of wines, and the wine of kings!’ Thus, Tokaji earned its title as the ‘wine of kings’ due to its exceptional taste, becoming a rare gem not easily accessible to everyone.
You might wonder, just as I did back when I was first diving into the world of wine, what kind of wine could possibly earn such high praise from the ‘Sun King’ himself? I was incredibly curious about the taste of this wine that Louis XIV declared ‘the king of wines, and the wine of kings.’
While my curiosity grew day by day, I decided to enroll in a Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) course at a wine academy. You know what? It seemed like fate was listening to my eager heart—because, incredibly, one of the first four wines we tasted in class was Tokaji wine! 🤩How incredible that my wine journey would start with the very wine I was so intrigued by!🥹
**For those interested in my wine experience background, check out About me. 😀 **
The tasting was conducted blind, and right from the moment the staff poured the wine, I could catch the enchanting scents of sweet fruit 🥭 and honey🐝🍯 wafting through the air. As I leisurely savored its aroma and finally took a sip, I was welcomed by a harmonious blend of dense fruit flavors like dried apricot, tropical fruits, and orange marmalade, all complemented by a rich sweetness reminiscent of honey and a robust body.
It wasn’t just the sweetness that appealed to me—there was an enticing acidity that intertwined with the sweetness, enhancing both the taste and aroma significantly. Despite not typically being a fan of sweet wines, the high-quality and exquisite sweetness of Tokaji wine left me pleasantly surprised and utterly delighted.
I wondered if Louis XIV 🤴might have felt the same way when he first tasted Tokaji. In that moment, feeling a strange sense of kinship with a historical figure from centuries ago gave me chills and filled my heart with emotion. It was such a special experience that made me incredibly glad I decided to take that wine class. It’s funny how a sip of wine can momentarily bridge the gap between eras, isn’t it?
This wine was Royal Tokaji, Blue Label 5 puttonyos, and recently I had a chance to taste another one, Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos 2013. Before diving into the details of these I tasted, let’s first explore some basic information about Tokaji wine.
Table of Contents
1. Exploring Tokaji Aszú
Earlier, I described the sweet Tokaji wine that captivated me during my tasting. This type of wine is commonly known as Tokaji Aszú. Now, let’s delve into what makes Tokaji Aszú so special, starting with its unique production process influenced by the fascinating phenomenon of noble rot.
Tokaji Aszú stands as a prime example of noble rot wines, with “Aszú” meaning “botrytized grapes” in Hungarian. This indicates that Tokaji Aszú is made from grapes that have undergone noble rot, an extraordinary natural phenomenon.
Noble rot occurs due to Botrytis Cinerea, a type of grey mold that clings to grapes, creating tiny perforations in the skin. This allows moisture to evaporate, thereby concentrating the sugars within the grape. More importantly, the mold imparts unique flavors, creating a wine that’s not merely sweet but complex and richly flavored, distinctly different from typical sweet wines.
For Botrytis to thrive, a humid environment is essential. However, if the grapes are not fully ripe when affected by Botrytis, or if the damp weather persists too long, the grapes might simply rot. The ideal scenario is a balance where the grapes are perfectly ripe, followed by humid conditions that allow Botrytis to flourish, and then dry, sunny weather to prevent decay and encourage natural shriveling of the grapes.
Such conditions are rare and typically occur where warm, slow-moving rivers meet cooler, faster tributaries. A classic example is the Sauternes region in Bordeaux, where the Garonne River meets its tributary, the Ciron. Similarly, the Tokaj region benefits from the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog Rivers, creating mists and the right humid conditions favorable for Botrytis Cinerea. This unique environment has allowed Tokaj to produce high-quality noble rot wines that have been cherished by European nobility, including the French royal court, for centuries.
2. Tokaji Aszú, sweetness levels
Puttonyos’ is a distinctive scale used to measure the sweetness levels of Tokaji Aszú. The term ‘Puttonyos’ originally refers to the baskets used to collect botrytized grapes, which directly influence the wine’s sweetness rating. Botrytized grapes, being so rich in sugar, ferment poorly. Traditionally, these sugary grapes are crushed and mixed with regular dry wine for fermentation, a process that helps extract their sweet flavors and rich aromas. Historically, sweetness levels ranged from 3 to 6 Puttonyos, but since 2014, only the 5 and 6 Puttonyos categories are used.
Typically, a Puttonyos basket holds about 20 liters of botrytized grapes. The number of baskets added to a 140-liter fermentation vat determined the wine’s classification. For instance, a 5 Puttonyos rating means that 100 liters of botrytized grapes (from five baskets) were fermented along with 40 liters of standard wine. This unique method of blending allows for a thorough extraction of polyphenolic compounds from the grapes, creating Tokaji Aszú’s dense texture and distinctive flavor profile. Nowadays, while actual baskets are no longer used, the Puttonyos rating still signifies the residual sugar content per liter, maintaining this traditional classification system.
3. Grape Variety: Furmint
Tokaji wines are predominantly made from the Furmint grape variety, with occasional use of Hárslevelű. The name Furmint comes from the French word “froment,” meaning wheat, which refers to the golden wheat-like hue of the wines made from these grapes when fully ripe. Furmint accounts for about 70% of all grape cultivation in the Tokaj region.
While Furmint is also found in Slovenia, Croatia, Slovakia, Austria, and Romania, Hungary leads in its cultivation by a considerable margin. Unlike many grape varieties where increased sugar levels typically lead to lower acidity, Furmint is unique because it maintains high levels of both sugar and acidity, making it a late-ripening variety. This characteristic allows Furmint to be versatile in winemaking, suitable for crafting everything from dry wines, reminiscent of Riesling, to very sweet wines, and even sparkling wines.
This flexibility and distinctive profile make Furmint a central figure in the storied tradition of Tokaji wine, celebrated for its depth and complexity. Whether you’re a seasoned wine enthusiast or a curious newcomer, exploring the range of styles offered by Furmint can provide a delightful insight into the rich tapestry of Hungarian viticulture.
4. Tasting Experience
Blind Tasting: Royal Tokaji, Blue Label 5 puttonyos
The wine I mentioned at the beginning of this post, the first tokaji wine I experienced at the wine academy is Royal Tokaji, Blue Label 5 Puttonyos.
This wine has a striking golden color and offers dense fruit flavors of dried apricot, tropical fruits, and orange marmalade, balanced beautifully by a vibrant acidity and a rich sweetness akin to honey. Its elegant finish, with nuances reminiscent of black tea, leaves a lasting impression. Made from Furmint, Hárslevelű, and Muscat grapes, this wine showcases the craftsmanship of Royal Tokaji, a leading producer revitalized post-Hungarian democratization by wine critic Hugh Johnson in 1989.
Royal Tokaji, known for its exceptional quality, produces both Blue and Red Label versions of the 5 Puttonyos. The Blue Label is primarily marketed in Europe, while the Red Label is for the U.S. market, but they are essentially the same wine with different labels.
Paring with Chevre and Sorbet : Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos 2013
I recently had an unforgettable dining experience at a Michelin 2-star French restaurant, “Allen” in Gangnam, Seoul, where I enjoyed a five-course meal with expertly paired wines. Every dish and the service were truly amazing, and the finale of the meal was a dessert paired with Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2013.
The dessert featured chèvre cheese and a refreshing Korean melon (chamoe) sorbet. This pairing was truly a masterpiece. The Tokaji Aszú, with its rich sweetness balanced by vibrant acidity, showcased flavors of apricot, honey, and citrus peel. It complemented the tangy and creamy chevre cheese perfectly, creating a harmonious blend of flavors. The chèvre’s tartness provided a delightful contrast to the wine’s sweetness, while the chamoe sorbet added a refreshing touch, enhancing the overall experience.
This combination not only highlighted the complexity of the Tokaji Aszú but also illustrated the thoughtful artistry of wine pairing. Each bite and sip revealed new layers of flavor, making the experience both memorable and enjoyable. The delicate balance between the sweet, tangy, and refreshing elements made this dessert pairing a perfect conclusion to a splendid meal. This dining adventure reinforced how the right wine can elevate the culinary experience to extraordinary heights.
The Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2013 is a masterful blend that highlights the best of Tokaji’s tradition and terroir. This wine is composed of 75% Furmint, 15% Zéta, and 10% Hárslevelű for the base wine, with an additional 50% Furmint and 50% Hárslevelű Aszú berries. After the alcoholic fermentation, the wine is aged in stainless steel tanks and partly in oak barrels, allowing it to develop its complex profile.
Although I’m not a big fan of sweet wines and have never purchased one myself, I highly recommend trying these beautiful Tokaji wines. They may come in small quantities and carry a higher price tag due to the complex and labor-intensive production process, but they are worth every drop. One of the great things about Tokaji Aszú is that it doesn’t oxidize quickly and its taste remains stable for a while, even when stored in the refrigerator after opening. So, you can savor it slowly over time. Experience the magic of Tokaji and let its rich flavors and history enchant you.