Recently, I got an exciting message from my local wine shop—Oliver Zeter’s wines had just arrived! The shop manager described Oliver Zeter as a German winemaker who has gained an impressive reputation for producing Sauvignon Blanc of such high quality that it’s often compared to the famous Sancerre from France. With that glowing recommendation, I had to try them for myself. I bought two bottles each of Sauvignon Blanc Fumé and Sauvignon Blanc Trocken, and both turned out to be absolute delights, each with its own distinctive character.
The Fumé had a beautifully layered complexity, with smoky, creamy notes from oak aging, while the Trocken was crisp, refreshing, and bursting with bright acidity. These wines are a testament to Oliver Zeter’s craftsmanship, highlighting his ability to express Sauvignon Blanc in ways that stand out among global competitors.
Table of Contents
1.Oliver Zeter – Winemaker and Visionary
For those unfamiliar, Oliver Zeter hails from the Pfalz region of Germany, a place known for its rich winemaking history. Coming from a family deeply rooted in the wine trade, Oliver ventured out to gain international experience in South Africa and Italy before launching his own label in 2007. Although Sauvignon Blanc isn’t a common variety in Germany, Zeter has made it one of his signature grapes, focusing on producing high-quality, expressive wines that embody the Pfalz terroir.
Zeter’s approach to winemaking is both innovative and sustainable. His Fumé style, for example, showcases his creative use of oak barrels during fermentation and maturation to bring out the smoky, complex character of the Sauvignon Blanc grape. It’s this balance of tradition and experimentation that makes his wines stand out, and his dedication to sustainability ensures that each bottle not only tastes great but is also crafted with respect for the environment.
2. The Story Behind the Bear on the Label
The bear sketch on Oliver Zeter’s wine label is more than just a quirky design—it’s a family symbol with a meaningful backstory. The illustration was originally drawn by Otto Dill, a renowned artist from the Pfalz region, and was given to Walter Baer, Oliver Zeter’s great-grandfather. In German, “Baer” means “bear,” and Walter’s friends affectionately referred to him by this nickname. One day in 1933, when Walter couldn’t join his friends for wine, Dill sent him a postcard featuring this playful bear sketch.
The image stayed within the family, and when Oliver began making wine, he decided to place the bear on his labels as a nod to his family’s history and their love for wine. Today, it’s said that seeing the bear on a bottle signals an exceptional Sauvignon Blanc—a sentiment I can certainly agree with after tasting his wines.
3. A Perfect Pairing: Oliver Zeter Sauvignon Blanc Fumé with Hanwoo Beef
Last weekend, I decided to pair the 2022 Sauvignon Blanc Fumé with oven-grilled Hanwoo beef, a gift I received during the Chuseok holiday. This wine, with its signature smoky and oaky characteristics, paired perfectly with the rich, savory flavors of the beef.
I prepared the beef by cutting it into portions and drying it in a dehydrator at 40°C for an hour. This method removes surface moisture and gently warms the meat. After that, I roasted it at 180°C for 10–15 minutes, which created a perfect sear. The truffle salt and Dijon mustard I used for seasoning added an earthy richness that harmonized beautifully with the Fumé’s tropical fruit notes—think passion fruit, pineapple, and subtle citrus.
On the palate, the wine’s crisp acidity cut through the richness of the beef, balancing the umami flavors. The oak influence brought in layers of smoke and nuttiness, while the wine’s creamy texture from the barrel aging added depth to the overall experience. The tangy pickled perilla leaves I served on the side provided a refreshing contrast, complementing the wine’s subtle minerality and herbal undertones. This pairing was a dynamic, flavorful experience that elevated both the wine and the dish.
4. Oliver Zeter Sauvignon Blanc Trocken: A Fresh, Vibrant Choice
While the Fumé was a perfect match for richer dishes, the Sauvignon Blanc Trocken offered a completely different yet equally impressive experience. With its vibrant citrus notes, especially lime and grapefruit, it reminded me of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but with its own German twist.
The Trocken is light, zesty, and incredibly refreshing, making it ideal for pairing with lighter fare like salads, seafood, or simply enjoying on its own. What I loved most about this wine was its clarity and purity—no oak influence, just a straightforward expression of the Sauvignon Blanc grape. It’s the kind of wine that’s perfect for a summer day or as a bright, crisp aperitif.
Fumé vs. Trocken: Which One Should You Choose?
Both the Sauvignon Blanc Fumé and Sauvignon Blanc Trocken are fantastic wines that showcase Oliver Zeter’s versatility as a winemaker. If you’re looking for something rich, complex, and smoky, the Fumé is your go-to wine. Its creamy texture and oak-driven depth make it perfect for pairing with grilled meats or hearty dishes.
On the other hand, if you’re in the mood for something fresh, light, and zesty, the Trocken will not disappoint. It’s an easy-drinking, citrus-forward wine that’s great for lighter meals or when you just want a glass of something refreshing.
Both wines reflect Zeter’s passion for creating unique expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, and either one will leave you impressed. Whether you prefer the bold complexity of the Fumé or the clean vibrancy of the Trocken, Oliver Zeter has a Sauvignon Blanc that will delight your palate.