“If there was Barolo wine on the table at the Last Supper, Judas would not have betrayed Jesus.” This famous quote from Aldo Conterno, a renowned Italian wine producer, hints at the extraordinary taste of Barolo wine. What kind of taste could make Judas forget about betraying Jesus? Well-aged Barolo offers a taste sensation where bitterness and astringency greet the palate at first, but soon afterward, a plethora of flavors unfolds. It offers a variety of aromas, from roses, strawberries, and porcini mushrooms to herbs, licorice, tobacco, and leather. This famous Barolo is produced from the Nebbiolo grape, known for its exceptional quality and complexity.
The grape variety we’re exploring this time is “Nebbiolo,” primarily cultivated in the Piedmont region of northern Italy. The name Piedmont itself means “at the foot of the mountains,” reflecting its location at the base of the Alps. This region has a rich history intertwined with the Alps, from Hannibal’s march with his elephants to Napoleon’s conquests. The capital of this region is Turin, known for hosting the Winter Olympics and being the heart of Piedmont’s winemaking tradition.
Table of Contents
1. The Historical Roots of Nebbiolo
The Piedmont region, with its rich viticultural heritage, was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2014. This recognition highlights the long-standing tradition of winemaking in Piedmont, dating back to Roman times. The primary grape variety cultivated here is Nebbiolo, which, despite being grown in other parts of the world like Australia and Chile, finds its true home in Piedmont.
The early 19th century saw Italy divided into various kingdoms, with the Kingdom of Sardinia playing a pivotal role in the eventual unification of Italy. During this tumultuous period, high-quality wine was essential for diplomatic negotiations, and Nebbiolo from Barolo emerged as a key player. However, cultivating Nebbiolo was a formidable challenge due to its temperamental nature. The grape buds early in spring but ripens slowly, making it susceptible to adverse weather conditions. The name Nebbiolo is thought to derive from “nebbia,” the Italian word for fog, reflecting its late autumn harvest amidst thick fog. Despite these challenges, Nebbiolo has been cultivated for over 2,000 years, with its reputation as a top-quality wine solidifying only in the last 200 years.
2. Piedmont – The Cradle of Italian Wine
Piedmont, protected by the Alps, is a region of significant historical and viticultural importance. Its name, combining “piede” (foot) and “monte” (mountain), aptly describes its location. The region’s diverse soil composition and unique climate contribute to the distinctive characteristics of its wines. Nebbiolo, with its thick skins and high tannin content, thrives in this environment. However, its pale skins make it challenging to produce the deep purple color typical of fine red wines, requiring prolonged skin contact to extract color, which can also increase tannins.
The difficulty of cultivating Nebbiolo and producing premium wine from it reflects the skill and dedication of Piedmont’s winemakers. The region’s early winters further complicate fermentation, making the production of high-quality Nebbiolo wines a delicate and labor-intensive process. Yet, the result is worth the effort, as evidenced by the acclaim and prestige associated with wines from Barolo and Barbaresco.
3. Barolo: The King of Nebbiolo Wines
Historical Significance and Prestige
Barolo, a village in the northwest of Italy’s Piedmont region, has earned its reputation as the “King of Italian Wines.” This title is a testament to the wine’s high standing in Italy’s classification system and its status as one of the most expensive Italian wines on average. The prestige of Barolo can be traced back to the early 1800s when Louis Oudart, a French oenologist, introduced advanced fermentation techniques to local farmers. These techniques significantly improved the quality of Nebbiolo grape fermentation. The premium wine that resulted from Oudart’s guidance captured the admiration of the aristocracy, including the Kingdom of Sardinia and the Savoy royal family, who dubbed it the “King of Wines.”
In 2010, the regulations for Barolo’s release were made more stringent, requiring a minimum of three years of aging before the wine could be marketed, with at least two years in oak or wooden barrels. This rigorous aging process ensures that Barolo wines maintain their exceptional quality and reputation.
The Art of Aging and Optimal Pairings
Barolo wines are distinguished by their extensive aging process. By law, they must age for at least 18 months in oak barrels and a minimum of 20 months in the bottle, totaling 38 months. However, many producers go beyond this requirement, extending the aging period to include an additional three years in oak barrels and two more years in the bottle. Wines that undergo this extended aging process are labeled as ‘Riserva,’ signifying their superior quality.
Barolo pairs exceptionally well with beef dishes, such as tenderloin or sirloin. The robust flavors of the wine enhance the richness of the meat, creating a harmonious and memorable dining experience. The combination of Barolo’s complex profile and the succulent texture of beef makes for an exemplary culinary pairing. For those interested in paring of Barolo and beef sirloin, check out my post about Roberto Voerzio La Morra 2016
4.Barbaresco: The Queen of Nebbiolo Wines
Historical Significance and Characteristics
Barbaresco, located just 20 kilometers northeast of Barolo, is another jewel of the Piedmont region, renowned for its luxury wine production. Despite being a short drive away from Barolo, Barbaresco wines, also made from the Nebbiolo grape, exhibit distinct differences in flavor and aroma. These wines are known for their strong aroma and robust aging potential, yet they offer a lighter body and a smoother, more elegant flavor profile compared to Barolo.
The differences in taste are primarily due to variations in soil composition and production techniques. Even within the confines of Barbaresco village, the soil can vary significantly from one vineyard to another, imparting unique characteristics to each wine. This diversity in terroir, coupled with meticulous production methods, ensures that each Barbaresco wine reveals subtle yet distinct nuances, highlighting the individuality of each winery’s output.
Production Process and Aging Requirements
One of the most significant distinctions between Barolo and Barbaresco wines lies in their production processes and aging criteria. Barbaresco mandates a minimum aging period of two years before release, with at least nine months in oak barrels. This contrasts with Barolo, which requires a minimum of three years of aging, including 18 months in oak barrels. Additionally, Barbaresco wines can be released with an alcohol content of 12.5%, whereas Barolo requires at least 13%.
These differences do not imply a hierarchy of quality but rather reflect distinct production philosophies and regional characteristics. For example, Barbaresco’s ‘Riserva’ wines earn their designation after four years of aging, compared to Barolo’s five years. This shorter aging period for Barbaresco aligns more closely with the production practices of premium Bordeaux wines in France, emphasizing elegance and approachability.
Notably, the village of Barbaresco is home to three standout wineries: Barbaresco, Treiso, and Neive. These producers are celebrated for their dedication to cultivating Nebbiolo grapes and their expertise in crafting wines that embody the village’s unique terroir. The result is wines that, while sharing some commonalities with Barolo, present a distinctly softer and more feminine elegance, earning Barbaresco the title of “Queen of Wines.”
Barbaresco wines, with their refined balance and nuanced complexity, offer a compelling counterpart to the more robust and powerful Barolo. Both regions showcase the versatility and potential of Nebbiolo, making them indispensable to any connoisseur’s collection.
5. Angelo Gaja – The Modern Maestro of Nebbiolo
When discussing Italian wines, it’s impossible to overlook Gaja. Angelo Gaja, the protagonist who elevated the relatively ordinary noble status of Barbaresco to the title of “Queen of Wines,” is often hailed as the driving force behind the revolution in Italian wine. Renowned wine critic Robert M. Parker declared, “Angelo Gaja was the catalyst for the start of the Italian wine revolution.” Among 100 wine experts worldwide, 99 would likely name Angelo Gaja as the top Italian wine producer.
Born in 1940, Angelo Gaja pursued dual majors in oenology and economics at university. In 1961, he joined his father Giovanni Gaja in the family wine business, inherited from his grandfather. In 1978, Angelo secretly planted Cabernet Sauvignon vines in a corner of the vineyard, defying the family’s tradition of solely focusing on Nebbiolo. Giovanni, shocked and dismayed by his son’s defiance, lamented, “Even if Napoleon invaded again, I wouldn’t be as surprised.”
Angelo conducted countless experiments to refine winemaking techniques. To produce high-quality wine, he reduced grape yields and, finally, in 1981, identified separate plots within his Barbaresco vineyards with optimal conditions for growing Nebbiolo. He named the wines produced from these vineyards ‘Sori San Lorenzo’ and ‘Sori Tildin,’ meaning ‘hill’ and his grandmother’s name, respectively, in Italian. Today, these wines often command prices exceeding those of premier Bordeaux wines.
Angelo Gaja’s innovative approach and relentless pursuit of excellence have not only elevated the status of Barbaresco but have also set new standards for Italian wines globally. His influence continues to inspire winemakers in Piedmont and beyond, ensuring that the legacy of Nebbiolo remains strong and dynamic.