The Saint-Estèphe region of Bordeaux has always been a favorite of mine, especially for its excellent value wines compared to other Bordeaux regions, including the historic Calon-Ségur.
Among these treasures, Château Montrose stands out, particularly since Robert Parker, a renowned American wine critic, has highly praised it. In his book, “Bordeaux: A Consumer’s Guide to the World’s Finest Wines,” Parker describes Château Montrose as “the most reliable Saint-Estèphe grand cru since 1989,” and suggests that if the 1855 classification were to be revised, Château Montrose could potentially be elevated to First Growth status due to its consistent quality and exceptional vintages.
With such a glowing recommendation, I had been eagerly waiting to try this wine. A gift of a bottle of Château Montrose 2010 from my dear friend K 👤, was the perfect opportunity to indulge. Later, I found an excellent deal and purchased several vintages, including 2016, 2017, and 2018. And my cellar was filled with five bottles of Château Montrose.🤩
On a bright and sunny Sunday afternoon, 🌞 I decided to open the 2017 vintage. Well, this decision to start with the 2017 vintage was not random. While the 2016 and 2018 vintages are known for their exceptional aging potential, the 2017 vintage, although less acclaimed, is more approachable in its youth and offers immediate enjoyment. The 2017 growing season in Bordeaux was challenging, with severe frosts and mixed weather conditions leading to a vintage that is best suited for short-to-medium-term drinking.🍷👏🏻
Before we get to the details for tasting experience of Château Montrose 2017, let’s delve into information about Château Montrose, first.
Table of Contents
1. The History of Château Montrose
Unlike many renowned estates in the Médoc region with obscure origins, Château Montrose has a relatively recent history, having been established in 1815. The estate’s prosperity is well-documented, with a steady succession of ownership that has contributed to its consistent success.
Nestled in the heart of Saint-Estèphe in Bordeaux’s Médoc region, Château Montrose is a name synonymous with excellence and heritage. The story of this illustrious estate began in 1815 when Etienne Theodore Dumoulin purchased a portion of land from the Segur family and planted the first vines. Despite its relatively short history compared to other Bordeaux estates, Montrose’s dedication to quality led to its classification as a Second Growth (Deuxième Cru) in the famous 1855 Bordeaux classification. Even today, Château Montrose is regarded as a true Second Growth in both name and quality.
In 1866, an Alsatian architect named Mathieu Dollfus acquired the estate. Dollfus modernized and expanded the facilities, introducing innovative viticulture and winemaking techniques that significantly elevated Montrose’s reputation. After Dollfus’s passing, the Charmolue family took over, maintaining the estate’s high standards and furthering its legacy for over a century. Fast forward to the modern era, and in 2006, the Bouygues family, led by construction and telecom magnates Martin and Olivier Bouygues, took ownership of Château Montrose. Under their stewardship, the estate underwent a major transformation from 2007 to 2013, with extensive investments in both infrastructure and technology. These improvements have positioned Montrose to continue producing some of the finest wines in the world.
2. The Terroir and Viticulture
The unique terroir of Château Montrose is often referred to as the “elite core” by geologists, a testament to its exceptional soil composition. The surface layer consists of gravel mixed with sand, while deeper layers are rich in clay, providing the vines with ample water and minerals. The subsoil is naturally well-drained, ensuring the health and vigor of the vines.
Château Montrose’s vineyards are planted with grape varieties that thrive in this special terroir: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Each grape is meticulously hand-harvested and carefully sorted before destemming and crushing. The juice then ferments in 92 stainless steel tanks of varying sizes and temperatures, allowing for precise control over the winemaking process. After fermentation, the best wines are selected and aged in oak barrels, with only the finest bearing the Château Montrose name.
3. Comparison with Château Calon-Ségur
Both Château Montrose and Château Calon-Ségur share a historical connection through the Segur family, yet they have distinct identities and classifications in the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.
a. Historical Connection
Château Montrose was originally part of the Calon-Ségur estate before Etienne Theodore Dumoulin purchased the land in 1815 to establish Montrose. Both estates were under the ownership of the influential Segur family, renowned for their contributions to Bordeaux wine.
b. Classification and Market Perception
- Château Montrose: Classified as a Second Growth (Deuxième Cru) due to its consistent high quality and market demand. It is known for producing robust, full-bodied wines with excellent aging potential.
- Château Calon-Ségur: Classified as a Third Growth (Troisième Cru), reflecting its slightly less prestigious market position at the time. However, it is celebrated for its elegant and refined wines.
c. Terroir and Viticulture
Both estates benefit from a unique terroir with gravelly topsoil and clay subsoil, contributing to the wine’s structure and depth.
- Château Montrose: The vineyard management and modern winemaking techniques ensure high-quality production.
- Château Calon-Ségur: Also enjoys excellent terroir but is known for its slightly different vineyard practices which contribute to its distinct wine profile.
d. Taste and Feel
- Château Montrose: Known for its dense, powerful wines with dark fruit flavors, earthy undertones, and firm tannins. These wines are built for long-term aging.
- Château Calon-Ségur: Offers a mix of red and dark fruit flavors with floral notes, a more elegant structure, and a refined finish. These wines also age well but are typically more approachable in their youth compared to Montrose.
4. Tasting Experience : Paring with Homemade Ragu Pasta
As mentioned earlier, the 2017 vintage is relatively more approachable in its youth and offers immediate enjoyment. So, unlike my usual practice of decanting with my favorite Liedel Apple Decantor, I opted to use a wine aerator this time and savor the wine slowly over about four to five hours. This change felt like the perfect way to enjoy my leisurely Sunday afternoon.
As the wine breathed and evolved, I spent the next 2-3 hours preparing for a delightful dinner. The night before, I had meticulously crafted a rich ragu sauce, which I proudly cook quite often for pairing with wines, 😆 allowing it to simmer and develop deep flavors. Pairing this with the Château Montrose seemed like an excellent idea, and I couldn’t wait to see how the wine and the dish would complement each other.
In the first hour, after pouring the wine with the aerator into a glass, it was quite tight, with pronounced tannins and a somewhat closed bouquet. However, hints of dark fruit and subtle earthy notes began to peek through. By the two-hour mark, the wine started to reveal its complexity, showing layers of blackcurrant, plum, and delicate tobacco undertones.
When dinner was ready, the wine had been breathing in the bottle for about two hours. Even with the aerator, it was good enough to enjoy the pairing. The Château Montrose 2017 had quite opened up, offering a harmonious blend of rich dark fruit flavors, softened tannins, and a lingering finish. The wine’s acidity and structure perfectly complemented the savory and rich flavors of the ragu pasta.
The pairing was a success, with each bite of the ragu enhancing the wine’s depth and complexity.👍🏻 The earthy undertones of the wine matched beautifully with the herbs like thyme and fennel in the sauce, creating a balanced and satisfying dining experience. The thyme added a subtle earthy and minty flavor, while the fennel brought a sweet, anise-like freshness, both of which complemented the wine’s profile. The grated Grana Padano cheese melted into the sauce, adding a creamy and slightly granular texture that complemented the ragu. The cheese’s added depth enhanced the wine’s complexity, while the wine’s fruitiness balanced the richness of the sauce. 🍝🍷
This evening was a perfect example of how a well-chosen wine can elevate a meal, turning a simple dinner into a memorable event. Château Montrose 2017, with its refined elegance and robust character, proved to be an exceptional match for the homemade ragu pasta. It was a night of culinary delight, one that I would happily recreate and recommend to any wine and food lover.😀