Have you ever wondered what makes a wine so exclusive that enthusiasts are willing to pay thousands of dollars just for a single bottle?
Today, we’re diving deep into the heart of America’s wine country to uncover the story of the most coveted bottles in the vineyard world: cult wines. These aren’t our everyday wines but it’s worth investigating the rich behind story of them.
Let’s begin with a bottle that’s as mysterious as it is prestigious.- the “Screaming Eagle.” Looking at its price tag of $3295 with a tiny, simple label, sparked curiosity from the moment it was seen.
What could possibly justify such a price? It’s the wine’s simplicity in appearance contrasted with its complex backstory and exceptional demand that heightens the mystery surrounding it.
Wines like these, originally from Napa Valley, these ‘cult wines’ are known for their rich fruit flavors, a result of the valley’s long, sun-drenched summers. Over time, some vintners, wealthy from other pursuits, chose to focus more intensely on quality rather than quantity.
In 1880, Gustave Niebaum established Inglenook with the goal of creating the first world-class winery in Napa Valley. Additionally, Georges de Latour founded Beaulieu Vineyard next to Inglenook. These two wineries targeted consumers on the East Coast because people in that region had a keen appreciation for wine at the time.
Join me as we delve deeper into this rich vein of viticulture history, exploring how passion, ambition, and a relentless pursuit of perfection gave rise to the cult wines that captivate collectors and connoisseurs around the globe.
Table of Contents
1. What happened in Napa before the 1970s
After the Prohibition era and economic downturn of the 1920s, the Napa Valley wine industry experienced a revitalization in the 1960s, thanks to an influx of new talent.
Foreign experts like Andre Tchelistcheff from Russia and Mike Grgich from Croatia, alongside local talents such as Robert Mondavi, Warren Winiarski, Cathy Corison, John Shafer, and Tony Soter, led the qualitative transformation of Napa wines. Leveraging the latest technologies and knowledge from research conducted at UC Davis, they elevated Napa wines to a global standard. Through collaboration and knowledge-sharing, the “Napa” brand gained worldwide recognition.
For decades, wine makers in Napa Valley have overcome challenges together by sharing information and experiences. Winemaking is a risky industry where a single mistake can lead to significant losses, so they’ve exchanged knowledge through small informal gatherings.
These gatherings gradually grew, leading to the establishment of the Napa Valley Vintners Association in 1975, which became a hub for sharing information on grape growing and winemaking. The wine program offered by the University of California, Davis played a crucial role, providing scientific knowledge necessary for cultivating grapes and crafting wine.
Napa’s success was also due to its lenient legal regulations, allowing for experimentation, and the stable climate of Northern California. These conditions enabled Napa to produce outstanding wines annually, gaining popularity for its fruit-forward flavors. The 1976 Judgment of Paris, where Napa wines received higher ratings than French wines, showcased to the world that great wines could also be crafted through technique and innovation.
2. The Birth of Cult Wines
Towards the end of the 20th century, Napa Valley saw a continual influx of producers eager to establish new wineries. Recognizing their lack of historical background or famous lineage, these newcomers understood the need to create exceptional wines to stand out in competition with established wineries.
They realized the importance of carving out a niche within the market and focused on producing high-quality wines centered around Napa’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon.
Their goal was to craft elusive, high-quality wines akin to Bordeaux’s Grand Crus. Price policies were tailored to the luxury market, where high prices symbolized exclusivity and elevated consumer status. This business model aimed to grant buyers a special status in situations of low production and high demand.
Consequently, these wineries eschewed traditional distribution channels, opting instead to sell directly to consumers through allocation lists or via selected restaurants. This approach proved instrumental in attracting new potential customers and emphasizing the brand’s unique value proposition.
3. Life is graded on a curve
Cult wines boast high demand among consumers due to limited production, but this makes marketing challenging, especially for new wineries. One solution lies in obtaining high scores from critics, a powerful means of garnering attention and status for wines.
Critic scores play a significant role in consumers’ perception of quality and value, with positive reviews from renowned critics like Robert Parker or Jim Laube proving particularly beneficial for business. Despite Napa Valley wines having a relatively short history, they’ve gained consumer trust with their distinct identity and high scores from critics. Some acknowledge tailoring wines to critics’ tastes, while others refute such claims.
4. Precision for Unmatched Quality
While cult wineries in Napa Valley acknowledge stylistic similarities in Cabernet Sauvignon production, they’ve dedicated meticulous efforts to create their own unique characteristics. These wineries have paid attention to details, aiming to capture their vineyard’s specific attributes beyond Napa’s abundant fruit flavors.
Their artisanal approach, though costly and limiting in production volume, has differentiated them in terms of quality, leading to cult status. For instance, grape sorting, a critical aspect of high-quality wine production, is labor-intensive, but some Napa wineries have invested in expensive, advanced equipment to enhance efficiency.
Wineries producing cult wines prioritize four key elements—excellence, detail, consistency, and uniqueness—as their foremost objectives in winemaking. They select the finest terroirs and meticulously attend to every step of grape cultivation and wine production, yielding consistently excellent wines each year.
This approach has elevated their wines beyond mere beverages, recognizing them as unique and exceptional works of art. The success of cult wineries lies in offering value that customers seek when they’re willing to pay a premium—namely, excellence, attention to detail, consistent quality, and above all, uniqueness.
5. Not for All : The Elusive Allure
The goal of cult wineries was to produce rare wines. Initially, purchases were limited to three bottles upon release, enhancing the wine’s scarcity and building reputation. People were inclined to desire more as it became harder to obtain, making it particularly challenging to tell affluent customers “no.”
While this rarity could stimulate the secondary market, most valued the wine’s unique worth. Cult wineries managed distribution through allocation and waiting lists, encouraging regular purchases. Customers who didn’t buy from the allocation list were removed, making room for those on the waiting list. Such policies added exclusivity to the winery and proved an effective way to secure new potential customers.
Cult wine producers are well aware of the importance of maintaining close relationships with consumers through limited production and direct sales strategies. They strive to enhance their connection with customers by offering wine club memberships, providing a sense of belonging and luxury.
This strategy fosters a feeling of ownership among consumers and helps maintain a positive relationship with the winery. Winery visits offer customers the opportunity to see firsthand the details of the winemaking process and share in the effort and passion poured into each bottle of wine.
“The sale of premium wine is not just a transaction, it’s the sale of an experience.” Once formed, customer lists tend to remain stable, with customers consistently purchasing and enjoying wine each year. This is made possible by producing wines of quality that can be enjoyed immediately or aged in the cellar.
Purchasers of cult wines can broadly be categorized into three types: (1) those who genuinely enjoy fine wine and want to share good experiences with friends, (2) those seeking to showcase wealth and status, and (3) those who purchase for investment purposes.
Each plays an important role in the cult wine market, with investors particularly active in wine auctions, contributing to the continued growth and sustainability of the cult wine market. Wineries strive to meet the demands of these diverse consumers, focusing on providing unique value and exceptional experiences.
6. Cult Wineries: Uncorking Profits
Despite selling high-priced wines, cult wineries often do not guarantee significant profits due to the nature of the wine industry. While many have been in operation for over 20-30 years and may generate some profits, some still rely on external funding. Winery operations require significant investment in high-value real estate and incur high operational costs, including substantial labor expenses at every stage.
As a result, many wineries have high leverage ratios and operate pragmatically, utilizing allocation and waiting lists to maintain stable cash flows. The cult wine industry requires long-term commitment, patience, and continuous investment. For instance, Harlan Estate refrained from releasing wine for several years until they were satisfied with the quality, a decision that played a crucial role in their current success. Thus, the success of cult wineries is the result of long-term perseverance and continuous effort.
7. The Meaning of Cult Wines
In fact, a proper definition of the term “cult wine” has yet to be established. This term is used very culturally and subjectively. It was undoubtedly a word that media outlets were eager to find to describe wines that suddenly appeared with a large following (despite their very high prices).
In fact, “cult” used to be a heavily negative term, referring to cult groups or unconventional religious sects (of course, it is still used in this sense today). However, in the eyes of the media, people lining up to buy such expensive wine might have seemed somewhat similar. The intentional mystique cultivated by cult wineries also contributed to this perception. Being scarce in production and only heard of through word of mouth, they unavoidably became mystical entities.
In reality, cult wineries don’t seem to be fond of this term. However, they themselves recognize the need for a term to differentiate themselves from other wineries, so the word “cult” continues to be used by many media outlets.
Let’s delve a bit more into the role of the media. By the late 90s and early 2000s, cult wineries had already emerged as a top interest in the market, solidifying the mature, full-bodied, and oak-flavored style of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Cult wines leading this change would have appeared as some sort of “Avengers” to the American media. The idea that American wines, led by cult wineries, were now leading the world. This is likely not just a story confined to movies.
8. Some of the Most Famous Cult Wines
As mentioned in the previous post, there is no set list of cult wines, unlike the Bordeaux Grand Cru classification. While criteria such as “producing less than 2000 cases per year,” “selling for over $200 upon release,” or “having received a score of 100 points from critics” are often cited, there are no absolute standards.
Wineries that share the philosophy of wine production and sales outlined in this article may meet some basic criteria, but ascending to the status of a “cult wine” is another matter altogether.
Therefore, it requires careful consideration to subjectively evaluate which wines qualify as cult wines. Nevertheless, certain wines frequently emerge in discussions among enthusiasts, based on general criteria used by wine industry professionals. So, let’s introduce a few representative examples, with a primary focus on wineries of historical significance.
[ Screaming Eagle | Harlan Estate | Grace Family Vineyards ]
Screaming Egle : Regarded as the original cult winery, Screaming Eagle is one of the smallest wineries in Napa Valley. Jean Phillips, originally a real estate agent, purchased vineyards in Oakville in 1986 and released its first vintage (1992) in 1995. The wine received 99 points from Parker and quickly became the most expensive wine in Napa Valley.
This marked the beginning of Napa’s cult wine history. It’s notable that both the founder and the first winemaker (Heidi Barrett) were women. Currently, it’s owned and operated by Stan Kroenke, also famous as the owner of Arsenal Football Club. With a production of 600-800 cases and a release price of $2500-$3000, it’s rumored to take 12 years to transition from a waiting list to an allocation list.
Harlan Estate : Featuring a label depicting the goddess of harvest, Harlan Estate is an impressive cult winery. In 1984, William Harlan, a real estate developer, purchased and cultivated 240 acres of forested land in Oakville to produce wine.
It gained recognition as a leading cult winery, receiving praise from critics like Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson. Currently, it commands a release price of over $1000, notably selling a 10-bottle lot of magnums from 1987-1996 for $700,000 in 2000. The wines produced by Harlan’s winemakers under the label “Bond” are also prominent premium wines in Napa.
Grace Family Vineyards : In 1976, Dick Grace and his wife planted grapes on a small plot of land in St. Helena as a hobby. The grapes they grew were sold under the name “Caymus Vineyards Grace Family Vineyards” at Caymus Vineyards nearby from 1979 to 1982.
However, due to their exceptional quality, they established themselves as an independent label and ascended to cult status. It’s the oldest Napa cult winery and is also recognized as the first winery to use the term “family” in its name. It’s renowned for its environmentally friendly methods of wine production. Currently, it’s operated by the Green Family.
[ Bryant Estate | Abreu Vineyards | Schrader Cellars ]
Bryant Estate : In 1985, entrepreneur Donald Bryant purchased land on the scenic Pritchard Hill overlooking Lake Hennessey in the eastern part of Napa with intentions to build a home. However, realizing the land’s suitability for grape cultivation, he changed plans and established vineyards. The land soon became one of the most expensive in Napa. After releasing its first vintage in 1992, it rapidly gained cult status, consistently receiving top ratings. The Bryant family still owns and operates the small 13-acre property they initially acquired.
Abreu Vineyards : David Abreu, a third-generation Napa native from a family of cattle ranchers, founded Abreu Vineyards in 1980, concurrently starting a vineyard management business. With an unparalleled understanding of Napa’s natural environment, he became one of the most influential vineyard managers in Napa. He was even entrusted with replanting the entire vineyard at Screaming Eagle. Collaborating with friend and winemaker Richard Forman, they dropped off their 1987 vintage wine at a local restaurant and asked the manager for feedback, initiating the cult wine saga.
Schrader Cellars : Established in 2000, Schrader Cellars has a relatively short history but quickly rose to become one of the most successful wineries in the United States, acquiring a total of 27 perfect scores from world-renowned wine rating institutions. Central to its success are the wines produced from the Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville, considered one of the most esteemed regions in Napa Valley. This area, established by Napa pioneer Hamilton Crabb in 1868, is renowned for producing exceptional grapes.
[ Acre Winery | Sine Qua Non | Marcassin ]
Hudred Acre Winery : Debuting in 2000, Hundred Acre Winery is another winery with a brief yet impactful history, quickly becoming one of the fastest-growing cult wineries. Owner and winemaker Jayson Woodbridge is regarded as a prominent maverick winemaker, with his distinctive personality and perfectionist tendencies shining through in his wines. Based primarily in Howell Mountain, the winery has garnered a remarkable 22 perfect scores to date since its debut. Parker’s assessment of it as a “steroid-infused Chateau Latour-like wine” is famous.
Sine Qua Non : Located near Santa Barbara, Sine Qua Non is renowned as one of the most cultish wineries not situated in Napa. Every year, it produces wines with different names packaged in unique bottle designs. Owner Manfred Krankl, who personally designs the wine labels, began making wine out of personal curiosity in 1994, creating top-notch wines with a unique style that defies convention.
Using various grape varieties, including Syrah and Grenache from the Rhone region of France, Krankl crafts different wines each year. Krankl also has strong ties to the LA food industry, operating restaurants (Campanile) and bakeries (La Brea Bakery) in the vicinity.
Marcassin : If one were to pick a top cult white wine, Marcassin would undoubtedly top the list. Helen Turley, one of the most influential winemakers in Napa, was actually a Burgundy wine enthusiast, despite living in Napa Valley.
In the 1980s, she and her husband relocated to Sonoma Coast, deciding to focus on producing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. Despite being a very small winery run by the couple, since releasing its first vintage in 1996, Marcassin has consistently produced some of the highest-rated and priced Chardonnays in the entire United States.
Of course, it’s impossible to cover everything in this article. However, here are a few noteworthy wines that would be remiss not to mention, even briefly.
[ Colgin Cellars | Shafer Hillside Select | Dana Estates ]
There’s Colgin Cellars, another legendary winery with a female owner and winemaker duo, Maya from Dalla Valle Vineyards, an iconic winery established in Oakville, Shafer’s flagship wine, Hillside Select, Araujo Estate, crafting wines from another historic vineyard, Eisele Vineyard, Scarecrow, which has been making waves in Napa wine auctions since its debut in 2003, and Dana Estates, another young winery that has quickly risen to the top. These are just a few of the wineries that often come up in discussions.
If you are interested in the affordable, kind cult wines, please check out my other post, 10 Affordable Cult Wines You Should Taste.