As the planet warm🌞, the ripple effects touch every corner of the earth, but few industries feel the impact as acutely as viticulture. The wine industry, deeply rooted in tradition and sensitive to the slightest climatic shifts, faces unprecedented challenges due to global warming. With a potential increase in average temperatures, traditional wine regions around the world are under threat, from California to the heartlands of Europe.
Yet, in the midst of these challenges, opportunities arise. As some regions struggle, others find new potential. This dual-edged sword of climate change not only demands resilience but also invites innovation and adaptation in the wine industry. In this exploration, we’ll uncover how global warming is reshaping the wine map, impacting traditional powerhouses, and bringing emerging regions into the spotlight.
By understanding these dynamics, we can appreciate not just the threats but also the emerging opportunities that define the future of wine. Follow us as we delve into the traditional regions grappling with new realities and spotlight five rising stars in the world of wine that are set to redefine their viticultural promises under the changing climate.
Table of Contents
1. Global Warming Impacts 70% of World’s Wine Regions
Recent research conducted by teams from the University of Bordeaux and the University of Burgundy, which involved reviewing over 200 studies, has revealed that global warming could render up to 70% of global grape-growing regions unsuitable for viticulture. This poses an increasing threat to renowned wine-producing areas such as California, Spain, Italy, France, and Greece.
The research indicates that with a temperature increase of 3.6°F (2°C) or more, about 70% of the current wine-producing regions could face significant risks. Among these, 29% might experience extreme climate conditions that could render the production of high-quality wines impossible, while the remaining 41% could still sustain viticulture depending on adaptive strategies.
According to data from the European Union, the average temperature over the 12 months leading up to January 2024 was 1.5°C higher than in pre-industrial times, causing unprecedented climate conditions that have negatively impacted wine production. The International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) has reported that recent poor yields were due to severe weather conditions such as frost, heavy rains, and droughts.
Despite international efforts under the 2015 Paris Agreement, greenhouse gas emissions have continued to rise. The UN Environment Programme’s 2023 report predicts that if current policies persist, the temperature could rise by 2.9°C within this century. This is alarming news for producers in regions like California, France, Barossa, Stellenbosch, and Mendoza.
The research team suggests that while some regions might try adapting by changing grape varieties, such measures alone might not be sufficient to sustain economically viable wine production. On a positive note, they added that regions like the UK, Northern France, Washington, Oregon, and Tasmania could benefit from global warming, making viticulture more favorable there.
Approximately 25% of the world’s wine regions could benefit from a temperature increase of up to 2°C, and about 26% could maintain current production levels with appropriate adaptive strategies. This indicates that 2°C is a critical threshold for the impact of global warming on the grape industry.
the research team stated.
If global warming is not mitigated, accessing wine as we know it today could become more difficult. It is crucial that we respond to global climate change, not only for the planet but also for those of us who love wine.
2. Five Global Wine Regions to be Watched in 2024
In the face of global warming, many wine regions are experiencing crises, yet the 25% of wine regions mentioned earlier are gaining more attention due to these climatic changes. So, which are the most emerging wine regions in the world right now?
Amidst the waves of change sweeping the global wine industry—due to global warming, shifts in consumer preferences, and emerging trends—several regions stand to benefit. Building on this, we highlight five additional wine regions to watch this year, each with its own unique promise. These include Sussex in the UK, which, along with regions like Northern France, Washington, Oregon, and Tasmania, is navigating the changing climate to its advantage. Joining Sussex are the Douro Valley, Sicily, Finger Lakes, and Stellenbosch, each showcasing distinct opportunities and responses to global warming.
(1) Douro Valley, Portugal🇵🇹
The Douro Valley in Portugal, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, features endless terraced vineyards nestled between the serene flows of the Douro River—an impressive sight indeed. According to Forbes, it’s one of the “7 Wine Regions to Watch in 2024” as selected by sommeliers.
The region is traditionally known as the bastion of fortified wines like Port, but now, its dry wines are gaining a formidable reputation. Using the same varieties as Port wine, the region produces robust dry red wines with intense fruit flavors🍒and prominent mineral notes.
Over the past decades, the Douro Valley has invested heavily in high-quality👍🏻 dry wine production. Vineyard clonal research has led to more single-variety plantings, mechanical harvesters have reduced costs in terraced vineyards, and modern winemaking techniques have been adopted to improve quality.
Whereas 30 years ago, 65% of Portuguese wine exports were Port, now 67% are non-fortified wines. Douro’s dry red wines, whether using classical field blending or selectively replanted vineyards for main varieties, boast a unique charm from indigenous grapes and distinctive terroir.
If you’re a fan of full-bodied Napa-style red wines🇺🇸🍷, trying these is a must. However, there’s no need to directly compare them with wines from other regions; Douro stands on its own with its rich fruit 🍒 and slate-derived mineral qualities, and robust tannins.
(2) Sicily, Italy 🇮🇹
While Douro is known for Port, Sicily is famous as the home of Marsala. This Mediterranean island, offers a treasure trove of diverse wines beloved by enthusiasts.
Sicily has ideal wine-growing conditions with its barren soil, intense Mediterranean sunshine🌞, a variety of indigenous grape varieties and the microclimates created by its elevation in hilly and mountainous areas.⛰️
Here, you can find wines from a variety of indigenous grape varieties, leading with white grapes like Catarratto and red grapes like Nero d’Avola,🍇 as well as international varieties like Chardonnay and Syrah at reasonable prices.
Wine styles vary from crisp dry whites, sweet dessert wines, easy-drinking fruity reds, to aged, robust reds and even fortified wines. But there are also serious terroir wines for the avid wine lovers—such as Etna Rosso and Etna Bianco produced on the active volcano, Mount Etna.
Etna Rosso, an elegant yet robust wine suitable for long aging, is especially recommended for fans of Burgundy and Barolo. Made primarily from the indigenous Nerello Mascalese grape,
up to 20% Nerello Cappuccio can be blended in, giving it a light to medium ruby color with aromas of red cherry,🍒 violets, abundant herbs 🌿 high acidity, and robust tannins, reminiscent of something between Pinot Noir and Barolo.
Top-tier Etna Rosso, especially those from vines over 60 years old, offers a complexity and depth with pronounced minerality that is truly captivating. Burgundy’s climat concept and Barolo’s cru system are similarly echoed in Etna’s ‘Contrada’—officially designated single vineyards divided by microclimate and soil.
Meanwhile, Etna Bianco is also on the rise. Predominantly made from Carricante, with up to 40% Catarratto blended, the popularity of Carricante single-variety Etna Bianco is growing internationally. Its piercing acidity, sea breeze-like salinity, delicate fruit aromas, and finely crushed stone-like mineral flavors make it a stylish alternative to the ubiquitous, oak-laden, predictable white wines. If you’re tired of the latter, Etna Bianco is a must-try.
(3) Sussex, England 🇬🇧
England, once dismissed as a viable wine-producing region due to its damp and cloudy weather, has solidified its position as a sparkling wine producer over the last decade. Champagne houses like Taittinger and Pommery 🍾 🥂 have even established vineyards here.
Since 2000, the vineyard area has increased fourfold, and although there are just over 160 wineries, the industry asserts that some produce sparkling wines surpassing the quality of Champagne. Most vineyards are located in the southern counties below London, such as Kent, Sussex, and Hampshire. These areas slightly exceed the northern limit for viticulture at latitude 50 degrees.
Ironically, the average growing season temperature here is around 57°F (14°C), compared to 61 – 64.5°F (16-18°C) in Champagne. Over the past 50 years, a 1.8°F(1°C) rise due to global warming has had a positive impact.👍🏻
English sparkling wines are considered among the most similar in quality and character to Champagne, using the same clones of the same grape varieties and similar chalky soils as found in Kent and Sussex. Typically, these sparkling wines use the same terms as Champagne—non-vintage, vintage, rosé, blanc de blancs—and many wineries aim for high quality, engaging in extended lees contact for a minimum of 18 months to 3 years, resulting in complex brioche and toasty flavors.
Almost 100% undergo malolactic fermentation to reduce piercing acidity, a trend somewhat different from recent practices in Champagne houses. Despite price similarities with Champagne and significant vintage variation due to weather changes, many wineries prioritize quality and are increasingly incorporating reserve wines, suggesting future improvements. Champagne lovers should definitely explore sparkling wines from producers like Nyetimber and Gusbourne.
(4) Stellenbosch, South Africa
The hottest keyword in the wine industry last year was ‘sustainable farming.’ South Africa has been a pioneer in implementing sustainable farming techniques, establishing the Integrated Production of Wine (IPW) system in 1998, which manages everything from carbon emissions and soil conservation to employee welfare, with 95% adherence.
That same year, Sustainable Wine South Africa (SWSA) was established, awarding an ‘Integrity & Sustainability Certified’ mark to wines that comply with all sustainability regulations. Most exported bottles carry this certification sticker. Additionally, the Fair Trade Alliance protects fair labor practices. Seeing a ‘Certified Fair Labor Practice’ mark means it’s safe to trust. For wine enthusiasts concerned about the planet, these stickers are likely to influence purchasing decisions.
How did South Africa, a latecomer to the international wine market, come to possess such an advanced system? The South African wine market was completely controlled by the KWV cooperative before the arrival of democracy.
After the monopoly regulations were abolished post-1994, bureaucratic control systems remained, enabling integrated and efficient management.
South Africa’s star grape is the white ‘Chenin Blanc,’ locally called ‘Steen,’ accounting for about 20% of total production, which
is twice that of its origin, the Loire Valley. Here, Chenin Blanc ranges from light, mass-produced, affordable wines to complex wines made from old vines and aged in oak.
Typically offering more ripe fruit flavors than those from the Loire, such as ripe apples 🍏, peaches 🍑, guava, pineapple 🍍, and honey, with oak aging adding baking spices and toasty notes. Whatever the style, Chenin Blanc’s trademark high acidity is always stimulating. The quality of other varietals like the indigenous Pinotage, Bordeaux blends, and Syrah is also recognized globally.
(5) Finger Lakes, New York, USA 🇺🇸
The East Coast of the United States is slowly gaining attention with its sma🍾ll revolution in wine. When thinking of American wines, many immediately consider the West including California, Washington, and Oregon.
However, the East Coast wine regions like New York, Virginia, New Jersey, Maine, and Pennsylvania are asserting their presence, albeit quietly. Over the past decade, ambitious new wineries have sprung up in these areas, with Finger Lakes in New York being the most internationally recognized.
Similar in climate to the Pfalz region in Germany 🇩🇪, it offers cool but sunny conditions enhanced by the lake effect, which ensures a long growing season, ideal for producing attractive cool climate wines. From elegant and delicate Rieslings to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc, these wines are characterized by pure fruit flavors🍏, high acidity, and relatively low alcohol content.
The region is particularly famous for its sharp, refined dry Rieslings. Sparkling wines made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as herbaceous Cabernet Franc crafted with restrained oak, also make appealing choices for lovers of cool climate wines.
If you are interested in more about the climate changes on wine industry, please check out my other post Climate Crisis in French Vineyards : 5 Resilient Promising Grapes😀