The history of Sangiovese dates back to the Roman era, with its roots believed to stem from the grapes cultivated by the Etruscans in Tuscany. The name Sangiovese is derived from the Latin “Sanguis Jovis,” meaning ‘the blood of Jupiter,’ referencing the vibrant ruby color of the wine it produces, reminiscent of the strong hues associated with the mythological beginnings of Zeus’s blood. This variety of grape thrives in soil composed of unfertile clay, limestone, and gravel, typically found in hilly terrains. While it withstands drought and wind well, its early budding nature makes it vulnerable to spring frosts, which can impact yields.
Sangiovese wines, made primarily from this grape variety, boast a rich ruby hue and abundant fruity aromas, notably blackberry and cherry. Among the Sangiovese-producing regions, Chianti, situated between Florence and Siena in Tuscany, stands as a prominent area, contributing to 65% of Sangiovese production in Italy. However, there’s a distinction between Chianti and Chianti Classico. For those unfamiliar with Italian wines, the difference might spark curiosity. Chianti encompasses a vast area spanning approximately 70,000 hectares from Florence to Siena, making it Italy’s largest wine-producing region. Yet, originally, Chianti referred to a tiny village.
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1. Sangiovese in Chianti and Chianti Classico
In the 1930s, Tuscan grape growers expanded the Chianti designation to encompass a broader region, now known as the Chianti area. Consequently, in 1963, the Italian government differentiated the original Chianti villages by granting them unique names and imposing stricter wine-making regulations, leading to the designation of “Chianti Classico.” Unlike the broader Chianti region, Chianti Classico enforces regulations such as limiting grape yields to 7,500 kilograms per hectare and ensuring a minimum alcohol content of 12%.
The history behind Chianti wine is significant. Florence was the epicenter of the transition from religious-centric to human-centric thinking during the Renaissance in Italy, with the influential Medici family at its helm. Through their financial prowess, the Medicis gained dominance in Florence, eventually extending their power to Lorenzo de’ Medici, who summoned the foremost artists and architects of the time to the city, thus cementing Florence as the epicenter of the Renaissance movement.
However, coexistence with the formidable presence of the Pope was crucial. Consequently, the Medici’s frequent gifts to the Vatican included Chianti wine, particularly the original Chianti from the area now designated as Chianti Classico, renowned for its exceptional aroma. The Medici’s Chianti was sent in a unique bottle called “fiasco,” which originally denoted a failed plan in Italian but was transformed into a symbol of affection by the Medici, who adorned it with fine straw before presenting it to the Pope.
This rich history contributes to the allure and cultural significance of Sangiovese wines, particularly those from the esteemed Chianti Classico region, embodying centuries of tradition and craftsmanship.
Chianti Classico: The Black Rooster’s Back Story
Behind the story of Chianti Classico lies a fascinating tale rooted in the territorial disputes between two city-states in Tuscany during the 13th century: the Florence Republic in the north and the Siena Republic in the south. To settle the boundary, a unique proposal suggested using the crowing of a rooster at dawn. Siena fed a white rooster plentifully, while Florence starved a black rooster. The hungry black rooster crowed early, allowing Florence to secure most of the Chianti territory. The black rooster on Chianti Classico labels commemorates this event. The phrase “after 1716” marks the Medici family’s efforts in establishing Chianti Classico wines.
For those interested in more details about this back story, check out my post, Chianti Classico 1: Never Miss the Black Rooster’s Amazing Backstory.
2. Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Tuscany isn’t solely defined by Chianti. Italy, spanning from the northern Piedmont region to the southern tip of Sicily, produces wines across its entire territory. While Chianti remains Tuscany’s flagship wine-producing region, particularly renowned for Chianti Classico’s prestigious wines, it’s not the only player in the game. Besides Chianti Classico, Tuscany boasts other areas often referred to as the “big three” of Tuscan wines: Montalcino and Montepulciano.
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino stands among Italy’s finest red wines, alongside Piedmont’s Barolo and Barbaresco, and Veneto’s Amarone. “Brunello” refers to the Sangiovese variety cultivated in the Montalcino region, meaning “wine made from Sangiovese in Montalcino.”
Located about an hour’s drive south of Chianti Classico, Montalcino offers an ideal environment for Sangiovese cultivation. Perched atop rocky hills surrounded by medieval walls, the village boasts rugged, sloping vineyards ranging from 100 to 500 meters above sea level. The hot and dry weather during the summer facilitates grape ripening. Sangiovese grapes from Montalcino exhibit complex flavors, combining red berry aromas with hints of blackberry and leather, along with robust textures and ample tannins.
Biondi-Santi winery pioneered the Brunello di Montalcino style, meticulously fermenting and aging Sangiovese in large Slavonian oak casks for several years, followed by additional aging in bottles for several more years. Since World War II, Biondi-Santi wines have gained worldwide acclaim, with other Montalcino producers adopting their methods. By the 1980s, Brunello di Montalcino emerged as a quintessential Italian wine.
Brunello di Montalcino must be made exclusively from Sangiovese grapes and aged for a minimum of two years in oak barrels, followed by at least four months of bottle aging before release, starting from the vintage’s fifth year. For Riserva, the minimum oak aging period remains the same, but it requires additional bottle aging for at least six months, allowing release starting from the sixth year. Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello’s younger sibling, also made entirely from Sangiovese, can be released after just one year of aging, offering consumers a lighter, more affordable option while allowing producers to generate quicker returns on grapes not suitable for Brunello.
The strict regulations ensure that only the finest grapes are used, maintaining high quality throughout production. The combination of careful cultivation, strict aging processes, and the unique terroir of Montalcino has cemented Brunello di Montalcino’s place as one of Italy’s most celebrated wines.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
“Vino Nobile” doesn’t refer to a grape variety but rather means “noble wine.” It derives from the fact that Italian popes and nobles have historically enjoyed this wine, hence the name “noble wine produced in Montepulciano.” In Montepulciano, Sangiovese is referred to as Prugnolo Gentile. Montepulciano is located about 20-30 kilometers east of Montalcino, sharing a similarly warm climate in hilly terrain. While it receives slightly more rainfall, the sandy soils provide good drainage.
However, Vino Nobile’s status hasn’t quite lived up to its name. It’s considered a tier below Brunello and hasn’t received as high praise as other Tuscan wines. Nonetheless, tasting wines from outstanding producers like Avignonesi, Boscarelli, and Poliziano reveals why this wine earned its noble reputation. Recently, other producers have been striving to reclaim past glory. The regulations stipulate that Sangiovese must account for at least 70% of the blend, with a minimum aging requirement of two years for basic and three years for Riserva, including at least one year in oak. Rosso di Montepulciano can be released shortly after harvest, starting from March of the following year.
One point to note: don’t confuse it with the Montepulciano grape variety, the second most widely planted grape in Italy. For instance, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a red wine made from the Montepulciano grape in the Abruzzo region.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, despite its fluctuating reputation, continues to produce wines of distinction that are deeply rooted in tradition. The combination of Sangiovese, local terroir, and careful winemaking practices results in a wine that truly lives up to its noble name, offering a taste of Tuscany’s rich viticultural heritage.
3. Super Tuscans
Super Tuscans are the result of bold experimentation by Tuscany’s wine producers, centered around Florence, who daringly departed from traditional Italian winemaking techniques since the late 1960s. The term “Super Tuscan” doesn’t denote a specific grape variety but rather represents a groundbreaking departure from convention. It emerged when winemakers in Tuscany began blending Sangiovese with French grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, or even crafting top-tier wines without Sangiovese altogether. This shift in approach led to remarkable creations.
Similar to how Angelo Gaja revolutionized Piedmont, in the late 1960s, Tuscan wine producers also boldly discarded regulations and embarked on revolutionary experiments. They began blending native Sangiovese with French grape varieties, aiming for innovation. Ironically, these groundbreaking wines, born out of defiance, now stand among Italy’s finest. Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia, and Ornellaia, known as the Four Super Tuscan Icons, exemplify this trend.
Sassicaia: The Trailblazer
Sassicaia, so acclaimed that it was named the number one wine by Wine Spectator in 2015, derives its name from the Tuscan word for “rocky land.” Understanding Sassicaia involves remembering the location of the village of Bolgheri.
Readers of “Roman Stories” by Siono Nanami may recall the significance of the “Appian Way.” This road, cutting through the Italian peninsula from ancient Roman times, holds myriad stories of Italian history, akin to a historical museum. However, another road holds similar importance: the “Via Aurelia,” which spans the Italian coast from Genoa in the north to Pisa, then south to Rome. This road, inaugurated in 241 BC shortly after the First Punic War, is Italy’s first national highway.
Born from a desire to emulate Bordeaux’s wine flavors, Sassicaia began in 1967 when Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta decided to blend Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) and Cabernet Franc (15%) in a Bordeaux style, without any Sangiovese. Initially criticized by the Italian wine industry, Sassicaia persevered through countless experiments. Finally, in 1985, Sassicaia achieved a remarkable feat when its 1985 vintage received a perfect score of 100 from wine critic Robert Parker, bringing French Bordeaux techniques to the Bolgheri region of Italy.
Tignanello: Innovation Meets Tradition
Tignanello, on the other hand, introduced a novel approach by focusing on Sangiovese (80%) but blending it with Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) and Cabernet Franc (5%), omitting the white grape varieties typically required in Chianti Classico wines. Additionally, Tignanello was the first to introduce French oak barrels for wine aging in the Chianti Classico production area, innovating while maintaining the traditional backbone of Chianti Classico. Piero Antinori, the creator of Tignanello, was inspired by the success of Sassicaia but chose a different path.
Tignanello broke new ground by blending Sangiovese with Bordeaux varieties while excluding white grapes, a requirement for Chianti Classico at the time. This blend, along with the use of French oak barrels, created a wine with rich, mature fruit flavors and subtle oak nuances, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Launched in 1971, Tignanello quickly garnered accolades at wine competitions, establishing itself as an international star.
Solaia: A Different Blend
Solaia, like Sassicaia, was born in the Bolgheri region of southern Pisa. Founded in 1981 by Lodovico Antinori, it succeeded in producing a premium wine by blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, omitting Sangiovese altogether. It demonstrated its strength by being chosen as Wine Spectator’s “Wine of the Year” in 2001.
Solaia distinguished itself by emphasizing Cabernet Sauvignon as the main grape (80%), with Sangiovese taking a supporting role (20%). This innovative blend resulted in a wine that showcased the bold, structured characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon, complemented by the elegance and complexity of Sangiovese. Released in 1978, Solaia quickly gained recognition, and its 1997 vintage made history by becoming the first Italian wine to be named the best wine of the year by Wine Spectator.
Ornellaia: The Newcomer
The term “Super Tuscan” was coined by American wine journalists to describe wines that were initially excluded by the Italian government due to their departure from traditional Italian methods. However, the quality and aroma of these wines eventually spoke for themselves, earning the Super Tuscans a place as a staple at high-end Italian gatherings, often featuring the four iconic Super Tuscan wines.
Ornellaia, the last of the Four Super Tuscan Icons, emerged from the Bolgheri region as well. Established in 1981 by Lodovico Antinori, Ornellaia succeeded in producing premium wines by blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, entirely omitting Sangiovese. Ornellaia’s dedication to quality and innovation earned it the title of Wine Spectator’s “Wine of the Year” in 2001, solidifying its status as a premier Super Tuscan.
The Super Tuscans illustrate the evolution of Italian winemaking, where tradition meets innovation. By challenging the status quo and embracing new techniques and blends, these wines have redefined Tuscany’s wine landscape, offering a testament to the region’s enduring legacy of excellence in viticulture.